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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License
Article
Climbing-Specific Fitness Profiles and Determinants of Performance in Youth Rock Climbers
Author(s)
Jeanne Nichols1, David Wing1, Zachary Bellicini1, Rosie Bates2, David Hall3, Doreen Hall3, Mark Kattus2 and Jian Shen1
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DOI:10.17265/2332-7839/2018.05.001
Affiliation(s)
1. The Exercise & Physical Activity Resource Center, Department of Family Medicine & Public Health, University of California, San Diego 92093, USA
2. Mesa Rim Climbing & Fitness Center, San Diego, CA 92121, USA
3. San Diego Sports Medicine & Family Health Centers, San Diego, CA 92121, USA
ABSTRACT
With the recent decision by
the International Olympic Committee to include rock climbing in the 2020
Olympic Games, climbers and coaches are seeking information to enhance training
methods and improve performance. The purpose of this study was two-fold: (1) to evaluate
climbing-specific fitness and establish percentile rankings among youth
climbers; and (2) determine the
relationship between fitness and climbing performance. Anthropometrics,
fitness, and performance on three indoor bouldering problems ranging in
difficulty from V0-V8 were assessed in 64 youth climbers (35 girls, 29 boys)
aged 7-17 from the United States. Data are reported by age groups (7-11; 12-17
y) and gender. Percentile rankings of fitness scores were computed for girls
and boys separately. Analysis of variance was used to compare fitness by age
groups and by gender. Regression analysis evaluated the association between
climbing performance and fitness. Fitness scores were generally higher among
boys than girls, and older vs. younger climbers. Multivariable linear
regression revealed that, after adjusting for age, gender, and anthropometrics,
fitness variables explained 49% of the variance in performance.
Climbing-specific fitness measures previously established on adults are
associated with bouldering performance in youth climbers, and therefore may be
useful for monitoring progress in training.
KEYWORDS
Rock climbing, children, climbing-specific fitness, performance.
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